Antipole cruises

Kristansand to Oslo

When we departed from Kristiansand, we finally had good weather with a west wind.

We took the ‘scenic route’ through the extensive Skjærgård (archipelago of skerries) and, notably, the Blindleia – the blind ally – so called because it is very narrow, and it is impossible to see what is coming next.

With the west wind, we could sail it all with just the Genoa – rolled down to a pocket handkerchief-size for the tricky bits.

We anchored part way through and dinghied ashore to walk to the village of Brekkestø, followed by a swim off the stern – the first of the season.

The next day we completed the passage to Arendal.

Arendal is one of Norway’s oldest towns and was once a very important port with a large merchant fleet. Today it is described as ‘vibrant’ and we followed advice to avoid berthing in the central Pollen harbour, which is lined with cafés and bars. We chose the nearby marina, but even there, at times, we vibrated to thump-thump music from across the water.

Tony’s grandson Lucas joined us here. We made the most of some good southerly winds to get up the outer Oslo fjord. This wind creates an anti-clockwise current around the fjord, which was working against us. So we chose to stand well off where it was less. Sadly, we had to sail by many enticing islands – “a sailor’s paradise”. After a long day and 68nm we came to a harbour on the southern tip of the island of Tjømø, known as Verdens Ende – World’s End.

So it must have once seemed before a bridge made the island accessible. It has fascinating rocks. The remarkable visitors’ facilities are hewn out of rock and make interesting showers. Today Verdens Ende is part of a National Park.

We had lunch in the Restaurant At The World’s End, established in the 1930s. We wondered whether it was the inspiration for Douglas Adams’ Restaurant At The End of the Universe.

From Verdens Ende, we spent two days sailing up the vast Oslo Fjord before anchoring just outside Oslo for a rest and swims. It was our last peaceful stop before hitting Oslo in mid-season.

We eventually secured a berth in Oslo’s Aker Brygge, right in the heart of the city, bustling with waterfront bars and restaurants. We have made a start on the ‘must-sees’ here.

Lucas will be leaving us here and writes:

Having come from the hustle and bustle of Oslo, the bus journey down to Arendal highlighted the peaceful beauty across much of Norway. 

As always, upon arrival at Antipole, there was very welcome tea and food! Ynskje is always keeping the crew well-fuelled – I suppose the ropes fly from port to starboard a lot faster when jibing on a happy and well-oiled ship!

It’s been a fortunate week with lovely weather – good winds and plenty of sun. This has made for pleasant and relaxed voyages, particularly coming up the Oslo fjord, taking in the views of the island settlements, forests, and distant mountains.

Norway is an interesting place to sail, having to pay close attention to the charts and keep a lookout for signs of shallow water, in the rocky waters. Rest assured, Grandpa always has detailed route plans in place, so we are well-prepared! 

Thank you, Grandpa and Ynskje for another wonderful time aboard Antipole.

Our 2024 track chart.

4 thoughts on “Kristansand to Oslo

  1. liz pill

    Lovely photos! So pleased Lucas joined you and had some good sailing. The food sounds good, Ynskje . You keep the crew well fed. What an interesting place to take a shower!

  2. Heleen

    Hi ine en Tony,
    Ine, dat wordt even vertalen voor Tony!
    Wat fijn dat het weer eindelijk meewerkt en gezellig dat tony’ kleinzoon jullie kwam bezoeken
    Nu in Oslo: een heerlijke stad en veel te zien/doen.
    Ik ben weer terug op het thuishonk na reisjes naar Ierland en Corsica/Sardinie.
    Binnenkort met de flixbus naar Hamburg voor een weekje Lida-bezoek. Kortom…… ook doenig.
    Heb nog een goede tijd op de Antipole en natuurlijk… safe sail.
    Liefs uit het Amsterdamse, heleen.

  3. Alison Naisby

    Hi Ynskje, Tony & Lucas, so glad you had good weather for your week together & could visit such fascinating places! All the best for the next leg of your voyage with favourable winds & weather!xx

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