Antipole cruises

Oslo southwards to Fredrikstad and into Sweden

In Oslo we were joined by Ynskje’s daughter Sarah for the passages to Fredrikstad. With stiff southerly winds this was two days mostly tacking.

Sarah writes

Thank you Mum and Tony for your wonderful hospitality once again. As with the peaks and troughs of the waves, so was my journey onboard. I might have suffered severe seasickness and been very unlucky with the weather, but I also had a very lovely time exploring Oslo, eating beautiful meals on the boat, playing games, celebrating the election and football successes – whilst in excellent company.

I also have a new-found respect for the hard work that goes into sailing that boat – I really don’t know how the two of you do it!! 

Thank you for a wonderful trip. Till next time. Miss you already, enjoy Dobble, lots of love Sarah xxx


Fredrikstad lies near the end of the Glomma, Norway’s longest river, which is navigable inland.  Here it divides around the island of Krakerøy.

Today, a fleet of electrically-powered ferries provide a frequent and free service between the various parts.  We took the ferry from the marina to spend an interesting day in the Gamlebyen – the Old Town.

In the 16thC, when Norway was still under Danish rule, Fredrikstad was developed as a military fortress town to defend the river against the Swedes.  The military role continued until 2002. It has the classic star-shaped ramparts in the Dutch style. 

Electric ferry fleet

On one side is the fast-flowing Glomma with a wide moat surrounding the others.  Over the years, a newer city has developed on adjoining lands, leaving the Gamlebyen – said to be the best preserved fortress city in Northern Europe.

We had arrived in Fredrikstad from the west by coming up the Vesterelva – the western branch of the Glomma.  We had planned to pass through the three lifting bridges to depart down the Østerelva – the eastern branch.  However, the middle bridge has jammed and will not open again this year, so we had to return down the Vesterelva and work around Krakerøy.

It was a beautiful sunny day with a SW breeze and we had a lovely sail through the complex archipelago followed by a beat down the fjord separating Norway and Sweden and then into the Längörännan – the sheltered waters at the northern end of the Swedish Bohuslän coast.  Like much of Norway, this coast is predominantly skjærgård – an archipelago providing extensive sheltered waters for sailing.

We are spending a day at anchor sitting out rain. That’s the news for now.

love, Tony & Ynskje

Track chart

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