Antipole cruises

Rønne, Ystad and Copenhagen

Having said there was not much to see in Rønne, we found a guided walk leaflet and spent a day exploring the interesting old buildings that had survived.

Queen Margrethe was visiting, having arrived on the Royal Yacht Dannebrog, which was berthed in Rønne harbour.

Later, in Copenhagen, we saw Dannebrog on her mooring just off the Royal Palace.  She can be brought alongside right in front of the place for royal parties to embark and is a good way for the Queen to travel in her many-islands realm.

Rønne to Ystad

After the gales came the calm and we had to wait until after midday for enough wind to set out for the 37nm to Ystad, back in Sweden.

Just as we were approaching the busy shipping lanes mid-passage, we were enveloped in fog.  We duly sounded our fog horn, but it would be unlikely to be heard in the bridge of a modern cargo ship.  We relied on our radar, which we have not needed for years.  It was a strange feeling sailing blind at 6 knots and hearing big ships nearby.  We reached Ystad mid-evening.

Ystad is a delightful old town dating from the 11C and is very well preserved.  As well as old houses and inns, there are major buildings in the Hanseatic Brick Gothic style.  We visited the Church of the Virgin Mary, from whose tower a watchman sounds his horn every 15 minutes through the night to assure residents that all is well and that he is still awake, as has been done for three centuries.  We are told that in times past, if he fell asleep, he lost his head!

 The next day was a Sunday and everything was closed, even most cafés and eateries.  This is not convenient for visitors but it is nice for staff to have a day off with time for family together.

Ystad to Copenhagen

We would have loved to spend more time in Ystad, but a weather window before lack of usable wind and the threat of fog meant we were only able to sightsee on the evening of our arrival and the Sunday morning.  We set sail westwards at lunch time, hoping to reach Skåra.  The wind was better than forecast and held up into the evening, so we continued through the Falsterbro canal, which cuts through the isthmus joining Skanör to the mainland and avoiding extensive shallows.  There is a bridge in the canal and we had to wait an hour for it to be opened. Nevertheless, we were able to continue to the little port of Klagshamn, arriving at dusk.

With a meteorological trough expected, we were worried how we might make Copenhagen through the forecast calm, thunder & lightening and fog.  Fortunately, things turned out better than we dare hope and we had a good sail across the Øresund. This was followed by a beat past Copenhagen airport under continuous stream of departing aircraft and the stench of aviation fumes.  Finally, we sailed into Copenhagen itself, carrying our sails all the way into the Amaliehavn where we had to shift some sunbathers from the jetty.


We have an excellent position right in the centre of the city and have been able to sit in the cockpit enjoying drinks while watching some local thespians rehearsing A Mid-Summer Nights Dream (in English, of course) on a nearby stage.

Copenhagen is amazing.  We have visited many fine cities in our Baltic travels, but Copenhagen is perhaps the most impressive in its grand buildings and tall towers.

We have visited the Danish Design Museum. There is also a three day design festival, whereby dozens of studios and other premises are displaying a red ballon outside, inviting you in to see their work and enjoy a glass of rosé. In an architects office we visited, they had the designers of their office furniture there to talk about it. It is just as well there is no space on board Antipole for furniture – the prices are eye-watering. We do, however, have a very stylish new lemon squeezer in bio-degradable plastic.

It is lovely to be in a city civilised enough that deckchairs can be left out on the water’s edge without someone pushing them in and where cycles can be left untethered until the owner returns. Public conveniences are provided liberally and free to use.

The city is virtually litter free.   Overnight the wind blew some surface muck into our harbour. By mid-morning a cleaning boat had arrived to deal with it.

We visited the Church of Our Saviour on Christiansholmn, pictured right. In 1752 this remarkable church had a spire added on top of its tower. In the lower part of the spire is a 48 bell carillon which plays ever hour as well as for concerts. It weighs 12 tons.

The whole spire is constructed of wood, which itself is remarkable. We climbed to the top using the eternal spiral staircase🥺. The view was breath-taking.

This evening, we await the arrival of Tony’s son David and grandson Marcus, who are visiting for a few days.

Tony & Ynskje xx

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.